New start for seasoned chef

Some people might consider Adam Smith naive for opening Restaurant Eden (3211-106 Shannon Road, Durham; 401-5395; www.restaurantedenonline.com) in the space where the estimable Starlu failed. It's the young chef's first restaurant, after all, and the location -- on the ground floor of an office building (entrance on the back side, no less) -- is hardly Night Life Central. But Smith grew up in an apartment complex nearby, so he's familiar with the area. And he knows his way around a restaurant kitchen, having worked in a number of them -- including George's Garage and the North Hills Firebirds, where he was executive chef for six years -- since he was 14.

Smith plans to attract customers with his fresh takes on traditional American fare and American regional classics, served in an inviting contemporary setting. He aims to keep them coming back with solid execution and value pricing, with all but a handful of entrees in the $8 to $16 range. Highlights of the regional tour include Carolina crab fondue, chile-rubbed pork loin with caramelized apples and North Carolina sweet potatoes, New Orleans style chicken gumbo, pan-seared trout with toasted almond butter, and the chef's distinctive horseradish-spiked take on shrimp and grits. Comfort food classics such as chicken pot pie and baked macaroni and cheese transcend regional boundaries. Same goes for strawberry shortcake and Godiva chocolate torte, desserts that ought to make anyone feel at home. Restaurant Eden is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday.